History and Background:
Courtesy of The Shrub and Shutter.
A small little gem hidden on Cold Harbour Lane can easily be amiss-ed given its dull and dark exterior. A surprise beckons though, upon entry you’ll find quirky instruments lining the wall, chalked up blackboards with recommendations, and a chill atmosphere supported by funky music.
Opened Autumn 2014, Brixton has welcomed The Shrub and Shutter with open arms.
The meal: (£21 for 2 courses, £26 for 3 courses)
Known for their eccentric and unique cocktails, The Shrub and Shutter also does a neat little set menu deal for 2/ 3 courses that can be eaten alongside your drinks. The hill top hood made of whitley neill gin, fresh ginger, cucumber, fresh lemon, ginger, avocado shrub and flying fish sashimi. Yes, that’s sashimi on your cocktail!
The slum dog millionaire, attached with a scratch card, consisted of warner edwards gin, warner edwards sloe gin, bitter truth apricot, redcurrant, mango chutney shrub, fresh lemon, grenadine, soda, frozen redcurrants.
Following cocktails, we got a bit greedy and ordered a third appetizer off the set menu, the chickpea fries were a pleasant surprise and delighted our taste buds. Filling and steaming hot, I’d like to believe we took the much healthier option than our normal fries!
Smoked duck breast and pickled mackerel highlights the starters. Both served cold with intention, the first a very tender affair, the duck breasts accompanied by a side salad to balance out the texture. Pickled mackerel, with rhubarb and rye maybe for one with an acquired taste. The sourness lingers on your tongue which is then softened with sweetness of the rhubarb.
Main star of the show were fish bangers and mash, the first I’ve had with lobster gravy. Interesting combination of sauces and condiments resulted in a very good dish. Generous amount of lobster sauce but not too much that it would overcome the fish sausage and mash. The fish bangers were soft and flavorful, most are used to a meaty texture, but these are reminiscent of the chinese fish balls you can get.
The lamp rump was delicate and tender, with rainbow chard and jus, it keeps the moisture within the meat when eaten together. Only thing to note – our stomachs could cater for more!
The chocolate filled dessert above was a little too rich however if you like sweet and rich, this is your thing. Topped with goodness, hazelnuts and raspberries, these are sourced local to Brixton. The below spiced pear was to my preferred taste, a ginger-y feel to end your night. Makes quite a good palette cleanser too!
The service: Staff friendly, intimate and very knowledgeable on their cocktails!
Bits and bobs:
- No shop front signage, you will need to go by GPS or the address! (336 Coldharbour Ln, London SW9 8QH)
Price: ££
